Best locking carabiner for grigri. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. Mar 7, 2023 · With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for climbing in the gym or outside. I always click the carabiners as double check after attaching them regardless of the locking type. I’ve got a rope and helmet already but am looking to buy quickdraws, a PAS, and a few more locking carabiners. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. This only happens with my grigri, I haven't had problems with my atc albeit with a different locking carabiner (Camp HMS compact lock). The ATC is hung from your master point with one locking carabiner, then the bight of rope is clipped with a second locker. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. The smart is my favourite belay device. Apr 15, 2020 · The Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate is a full-sized offset-D that has a keylocking nose and works well for most applications. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. Locking carabiners are among the first items of equipment that climbers purchase. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Most dissatisfying thing about magnetron is the inaudible response of the gate when I try to click it. Or, you're just starting outdoors and you need one for your belay device or for your personal attachment sling to clip into anchors. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. It also offers an extra-friction solution for controlling the descent of a heavy user. This is because it is much easier to move a frozen iced-up rope through a tubular device than through the Grigri. Its safety is its best feature. Whether you need something versatile for various climbing Assisted-locking belay device showdown. The downside of screwgate carabiners: The gate can sometimes accidentally open when rubbing against a rope or rock. . Jan 7, 2019 · This item: PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing 4 days ago · Rappellers and climbers must have rappelling carabiners in their gear for rappelling. Note: If your gym is pre-rigged with GriGri’s, an offset D locking carabiner is a fine option. Climbers choose the locking carabiners because they ensure that the carabiner will not open unless you do it yourself. This is a no-frills locker that gets the job done, feels good in the hands, and comes at a very Jun 5, 2025 · Put the carabiner through the grigri and screw the gate closed. Love their pure sliders too, for my PAS and a bomber quickdraw atm. There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary. If you are a fan of the GRIGRI design but don't want the auto locking feature, then have a look at the A carabiner is a climber’s best friend. slings : whatever cheap dyneema But blue ice are the best imo. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. They're made to stay shut in most cases. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. All things climbing carabiners demystified! May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. Any recommendations for styles/specific products of these you all enjoy? I know REI is having a sale on Black Diamond gear starting in a few days. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. Made of thick, round stock, this biner has a large, round basket that works great for anything you could possibly need to use it for, and is effective at cutting down on inherent friction in a belay system The Petzl Freino, a three-ounce auto-locking belay biner that really works best with a Grigri, is outfitted with an “integral braking spur” on its spine. Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. Oct 1, 2018 · Locking carabiners for climbing. It could be that your gym requires you to have a locking carabiner to attach yourself to the gym's belay stations or climbing ropes. Jul 19, 2019 · I've been having problems where I accidentally crossload my locking carabiner (Petzl Attache) while belaying someone on lead. We like to carry four of them for attaching to bolts at anchors, and as the second locker needed for an auto-locking belay device. Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes Feb 12, 2024 · In terms of the best belay device, the Petzl Grigri 2 is a no brainer. Weight is a factor. When I first Jun 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. How to Top Rope Belay with a Grigri Remove the locking carabiner from the eyelet and slide open the swinging side plate of the Grigri Correctly position the climbing rope Jan 3, 2024 · Attach the GriGri to your harness’s belay loop using a locking carabiner. I am looking to add a few locking biners to my gear, mostly for critical pieces, anchor building etc. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Here are our in-depth reviews! I began using my gri gri 2 with a Black Diamond Rock Lock HMS carabiner because it was the same one that I used with my ATC. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. You made an excellent choice! May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia) I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. It is durable, affordable, and with a retail price, presents fantastic value. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. Because most beginner climbers get into the sport via top-roping, the Grigri is the perfect complement for climbers who want to add more security to their top-rope belaying. It saves time and is safer imo. My partner and I both noticed that the carabiner would cross load on occasion when the screw gate became caught on the belay loop. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. It is used to belay, to attach the rope, to tie-in, to abseil, etc. Grivel double gates are light and nice too. Trad/Alpine Climber: Most likely all your non-locking carabiners, including your alpine draws and racking carabiners, will be offset D’s to keep weight down. Screw the cylindrical piece all the way into place over the carabiner’s gate to secure it in place, so it won’t come unhooked while you belay a climber. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. With this carabiner just a click and safety is guaranteed one hundred percent. Discover our collection of locking carabiners designed specifically for use with grigris. In contrast to the PETZL Grigri, it is a more appropriate option for beginner climbers. Step 3: The leader takes the brake strand from the GriGri, and places this rope in a second locking carabiner creating a second masterpoint on the anchor. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Jan 8, 2019 · However, a second locking carabiner clipped to a higher anchor piece could also be used for less money, and in general we prefer to use an auto-locking ATC such as the Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide to belay up a seconding climber, as they are more secure for this use (and a lot lighter and less clunky to carry up) than a GriGri. The Petzl Sm'D twist-lock autolocking carabiner is lightweight, compact and allows for quick openings when you need to connect a Grigri® or other device. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. If anyone uses an auto-locking device other than the gri-gri, can you talk about your experience with it and its pros and cons? Are there devices that have a guide mode for multi-pitching that also lock off well on lead? Mar 13, 2024 · SCREW-LOCK features a red band provides a visual warning when the carabiner is unlocked. Sep 21, 2023 · A locking climbing carabiner connects a belay device to a belayer’s harness. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. With the Clepsydra, you only need one. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. My point is that the tool should be right for the job. Aug 15, 2019 · It is very common for manufacturers to release the same carabiner design using two or three different styles of locking mechanism, so you can choose which one you like best. Carabiners for GRIGRI This is not an extensive list of every carabiner that works well for a GRIGRI, but does show each of the various styles that people use to limit the chance of cross-loading a carabiner. Its slim design will easily fit in any bolt-hole, piton, chain, or anchor oddity you may run across. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Just took a gym to crag class and am super stoked to take my skills outdoors. Sep 25, 2018 · The Spirit screw-lock is an ultra-lightweight, compact carabiner that easily loads the spine of the carabiner with its small d-shape. What's This option includes an automatic locking belay device and a locking carabiner with a safety gate. Feb 7, 2019 · 1 - Feed the rope through your Grigri, and attach the Grigri to your belay loop with a large locking carabiner, just like you would for belaying. Jan 28, 2023 · Locking carabiners are best used when you want an extra step for safety. BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. Other information is provided to guide climbers choose the best locking carabiner for Grigri. Jul 25, 2023 · Attachment Point: attachment holes accommodate a wide variety of locking carabiners and allow you to fix the Grigri to the belay loop on your harness when lead belaying or the masterpoint of your anchor when belaying from above. Once the belay device is correctly fed with the rope and clipped to the harness, the belayer must secure and double Oct 12, 2023 · However, we’ve seen many folks use them for their chalk bag. Mar 23, 2024 · Grigris are great devices for top-rope belaying. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. Here are our in-depth reviews. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. When closed, the twin gate Jan 8, 2019 · The Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate is BD's largest locking carabiner, designed with belaying and rappelling in mind. Petzl attach as master point in anchors, Simond as cheap D screwgates. Oct 7, 2024 · This is true when the device is installed properly without using an extra locking carabiner. Check out how it compares to the competition in our review of locking carabiners. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. E. Having trouble with my gri gri crossloading. If you are getting high off the ground or far from the Die automatische BALL-LOCK-Verriegelung reduziert das Risiko, das Verriegeln des Karabiners zu vergessen und gewährleistet zudem die Sicherheit einer 3-Wege-Verriegelung. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. Feb 2, 2022 · In practice, I have found my grigri is a lot more prone to moving around the carabiner and cross loading compared to any "manual device" (sticht plate, tuber, ATC, ATC Guide and Pivot). Looking for both big ones for HMS belays, master points etc and a few smaller ones. Press the carabiner open and clip it through the attachment holes on both of your grigri’s side plates. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned Clipping the grigri carabiner to another locking carabiner usually allows it to sit flat on flat surfaces. Ice climbing: Let’s get tubular! Auto-blocking ATCs are preferred for ice climbing over Grigris. This system is suitable for harsh environments where contaminants (mud, ice) could cause an automatic locking system to jam. Mar 13, 2024 · SCREW-LOCK features a red band provides a visual warning when the carabiner is unlocked. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. They usually include a protective sleeve or lock that requires additional steps for opening, giving their operators extra peace of mind. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. We've sifted through a ton of sources and put many carabiners through tough tests to bring you the best choices for 2024. These recommendations are based on our actual usage experience with the carabiners along with the Grigri. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. One of Grivel’s best twin-gate biners for belaying is the Plume, but the wires are too wide to fit into a GriGri. The best for belaying with an atc. So, for comparison reasons, the Edelrid Pinch is one locking carabiner lighter. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. However, once you're high off the ground, you don't really want to take any chances with it staying closed. Lightweight, rugged and auto locking, this thing is build to for anything. The Attache is made with I-beam construction and anodized a mango orange color, and represents the standard for aluminum locking HMS carabiners. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). Each carabiner in this selection combines safety, durability, and innovative design to enhance your climbing experience. TWIST-LOCK and TRIACT-LOCK offer quick opening for use at the end of a lanyard or connecting a GRIGRI to the harness. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. (Note that the ascender is usually for your non-dominant hand; ie, right handed climbers bideally should use a left handed acender. In early 2020, Black Diamond scrapped the majority of their previous carabiner line, and the HotForge is now the standard, basic locker that replaces the old Positron. What is the best carabiner to use with a grigri? The best for top rope anchor masterpoints. Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. Grigri. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. All full-size carabiners, locking and non-locking, auto or non, double or triple, are rated similarly in strength. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia) It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. Black Diamond Gridlock The Gridlock family of carabiners are specifically designed for belay devices. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. It hits the key marks most climbers seek Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. The decisive factor in choosing a carabiner for the grigri is its shape. 2 - Clip an ascender to the rope above the Grigri. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. It was so common I bought a belay master crab specifically for the Grigri to prevent this. While it has one or two shortcomings — the screw lock welds shut . locking carabiner : edelrid bulletproof are nice for first draw and top rope. Die Form des FREINO verhindert das Verdrehen und die Falschpositionierung des Karabiners. If you want to use a locking carabiner with an HMS-knot, it’s best to use auto-locking carabiners – otherwise, the knot may unscrew the sleeve of the screwgate. When using it, there is no need to recheck it during the course of the activity. What carabiner will stop this? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Carabiner For Grigri. For climbers looking for a locker to use on gym climbs, top-roping days, or rappelling, the Rocklock is a good choice that won't break the bank. Belay as usual with a Grigri clipped to the main biner. I this a problem with my technique or is there something about grigri's and/or Petzl Attache's that make them more likely to cross May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Thanks Explore our collection of auto-locking carabiners designed specifically for use with the Grigri. Nov 8, 2023 · When you’re not glacier climbing, it works perfectly with a Grigri, as the little “horn” prevents the carabiner from being cross loaded The standard recommendation for clipping to the rope for glacier travel is to have two opposite and opposed carabiners, at least one of them locking. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs Apr 15, 2020 · The Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock is a large, HMS/pear shaped locker that is easy to use and handle and provides solid gate security with its auto-locking, double-action gate mechanism. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. The best carabiner for most people is CAMP Photon Wire. Thanks in anticipation! Jan 9, 2019 · They are best used for building anchors on multi-pitch climbs. Each carabiner in this selection combines safety, strength, and innovative features tailored for climbers. This makes it lighter than a usable Petzl Neox. Nov 8, 2024 · SCREW-LOCK features a red band provides a visual warning when the carabiner is unlocked. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. Weighing less than 10oz and holding up to 4KN (4000 kg), the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender is your one stop shop multi-functional descender. But it works great for multi-pitch routes belaying in guide mode. Feb 22, 2024 · What's better, screw or auto-locking carabiners? This post dives into when and where to use each style of locking carabiner. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. The recommended Petzl Sm’D Screw Lock carabiner weighs 46 grams for comparison. I think I'd be nice to have auto-locking but have thus far only used screw-gate biners. Aug 15, 2019 · The Black Diamond GridLock Magnetron is a belay specific locker that uses magnetic technology in the gate to create an auto-locking system that is quite a Feb 15, 2018 · Grivel’s twin-gate carabiners create safer, faster and stronger biners and have been on the market for a few years. [3] 🧗‍♂️ Locking carabiners are a must-have for climbers, providing both safety and functionality. Jul 11, 2024 · We break down the best belay devices on the market, from assisted-braking standouts like Petzl’s ubiquitous Grigri to simple and reliable tube-style options Mar 13, 2024 · SCREW-LOCK features a red band provides a visual warning when the carabiner is unlocked. Make sure the carabiner is locked and the GriGri’s orientation is correct (lever on the left, plate on the right). If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. Mar 1, 2023 · This article lists five of the top carabiner for Grigri that anyone can use today. The selector knob allows the user to choose between two belay modes: top rope or lead climbing. Metolius steel auto lock carabiner: The best for belaying with a grigri. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. And one that isn’t the size of my face. Jan 8, 2019 · The Petzl Attache has long been one of the most popular locking carabiners, found on countless climber's racks — whether first-time gym climbers or grizzled El Cap big wall veterans. They’re designed to keep the gate securely shut, preventing accidental openings that could be catastrophic. (This is masterpoint #1) Step 2: The leader takes the rope leading down to the belayer and attaches a Grigri to the belay loop of her harness with a locking carabiner in the usual way. ymngi imgoegig evusu flhi lvvqvkba bedxso zdhfj zfodfd zhd llrrelt