Comp climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.
- Comp climbing reddit. From May 3-5, beautiful Salt Lake City, Utah plays host to bouldering and speed World Cups, followed by a paraclimbing WC on the 7th and 8th. Individual live chats will be posted 10 minutes before the scheduled start times. 3 hours, top 5 climbs count. The boulder scoring system drastically changed though, giving 25 points for a top, 3 points for a zone and a 0. In theory your comp time should be based around finding ways to practice somewhat creatively, and build good habits, and wins and losses and complaining teams shouldn’t matter. Reading the reviews, however, the Solution Comp would be much better suited for my indoor bouldering use anyways. Not to be too spoilery but where did Max Milne come from all of a sudden? The IFSC ranking system works well for their purposes, and this post isn't intended to be a criticism of it. Some sports also have an open category where both men and women can enter to compete. Every comp (even nationals) that I went to let you choose if you wanted to compete in the beginner, intermediate, or advanced categories for the red tape portion of the comp. Alex Megos goes for the Indalo for both boulder and lead, they look Altitude's Adam Ondra's climbing course. Now, comp climbers are obviously all excellent going with either hand, but at the top level where the slightest of margins make the difference, does being left-handed or right-handed show in results? I assume he's focusing on his big outdoor projects, but I'm still surprised - just last year, he was at multiple comps and now with a realistic shot at the Olympics (male Team Italy doesn't have two strong contenders imo) he's given comp climbing up? There are some interesting discussions about comp climbing with various comp and ex-comp climbers on the Careless Talk Climbing podcast with Sam prior and Aidan Roberts. trueHey climbit. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Most comps have every hold and move type in them, so becoming a well rounded climber is very important for doing well. Route reading, defensive vs aggressive climbing, time management, nerve management, energy saving, etc. I've always been predominantly a boulderer, especially for comps. After seeing past Climbing Japan Cup results, I learned a lot of cool facts today: Akiyo dominated bouldering for basically a decade. However, I think getting elite hand strength is a much more a blocker to climbing hard. Does anyone actually care about competition climbing outside of those directly involved? In light of Tondai's resignation and other similar stories IFSC mistreatment, it really got me thinking about whether or not competition climbing is actually relevant. What about climbing? Looking at speed climbing, the men's records are significantly better than the women's, so maybe men vs women won't be competitive in that discipline, but what about lead and bouldering? If we take the two Olympic Reddit's rock climbing training community. A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. Scoring for lead climbing has stayed pretty much the same, except for denoting a + as an added 0. The climb to diamond can be done by just forcing one comp/ play style. While it's not the most consistent, the features and quality or broadcasting are amazing. Hey all, just picked up a pair of mad rock drone cs and thought I’d share my initial impressions after my first session. You’ll learn a ton more about timing, positioning, scouting, economy, etc… if you don’t have to think about your comp. You often see this in both comp climbing and it has been shown before on pro climber vids where they wear one of each shoe depending on if they need stiff or soft. This sub here is about watching professional comp climbing (although most people here also climb). I use them mostly for indoor bouldering but they are amazing on indoor sport climbing and outdoor bouldering as well. We've been traveling around for comps the last few years and it's awesome to experience new facilities, routes, and communities. Feb 13, 2019 · This is my attempt at creating a list of resources that beginners and experts alike can use to find local, regional, and national events and competitions for rock climbing, bouldering, indoor climbing, and any other climbing related activity. e. Apr 6, 2025 · A subreddit dedicated to competition climbing with competition threads, live streams, highlights and discussion. In my view this has three effects. r/ CompetitionClimbing2 Join We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I was able to find every shoe except for Paul Jenft's. We want to build a space where regular, average joes can take part. And if comp climbing can get you there, then by all means start getting into it. Have you bought it and what level are you and is it worth it out of 10/10 The second event of the IFSC season is up next! Taking place April 28-30, the Seoul WC will see athletes competing in Bouldering and Speed. Any approaches to how to handle For sandstone, they are both a little too stiff for my liking, but the solution comp would be my choice. 6. My reasons for thus are the following: Content has come so far in three years. Just wanted to acknowledge that we are living in the golden era of comp climbing and years from now we will all reminisce about the good ol' days. It felt like a climbing shoe that was designed by someone that doesn't really climb in modern shoes. I have no idea how to approach it. Camera angles, mics on the wall, and leaderboards in the margins are such On the one hand, I do appreciate this being an actual new shoe and not just a different limited edition colorway of Solutions. Feedback on that is welcome. Take 15+ minutes to walk around and inspect every problem-- look for routes that suit your strengths, take note of anything that looks like you can break the beta, etc. Miho was so close -- I'm still surprised she didn't get the high zone on boulder 2, which would have given her the win in retrospect. They got rid of separating the athletes on attempts to zone, thus resulting in more Chat Channel and [post-comp thread] There's now 1 single chat channel that we're gonna try and use for all the IFSC World Cups. About: A subreddit dedicated to competition climbing with competition threads, live streams, highlights and discussion. This visualization shows the results of the climbing competition of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and compares the actual final rank of athletes with the rank they would have obtained using the current scoring calculations for climbing (which will be used at the 2024 Olympics in Paris). This feedback is just for the hub, as the finals thread is marked for spoilers. This is irrelevant to becoming pro. 9K subscribers in the CompetitionClimbing community. Climb some hard shit outside or win a big comp if you want to become pro. Secondly, I do experience climbing as a cooperative sport and believe that it doesn't work without that cooperation. Ai Mori has been winning the lead event since 2016 when she was 13!!!!! Unexpected but well-deserved win for Yuetong -- what a performance on the lead route, and even more impressive on boulder 1. Couldn’t quite read the oversized checks at the Brixen comp. Does anyone here know how Solution and Solution Comp compare size-wise and shape-wise? IT’S HERE!!! The IFSC season returns starting with a boulder WC in Keqiao, China. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). EDIT: I settled on La Sportiva Theory shoes after trying on and climbing in about 6 different shoes (Drago, Furia Air, Solution, Solution Comp and Theory all in various sizes) We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Why are we doing this? Competition Climbing is predominantly either youth or elite focused. My local gym is putting on a climbing competition, and I signed up for the V4-6 section because that’s what I climb at. If every climber only went bouldering alone or had themselves belayed by someone they didn't perceive as competition, progress in technique, skill, and strength would be much slower. And get rid of that "my gym grades hard" mentality, because no one cares about the hardness or softness of gym climbs. Does anyone know how much it is for each place? Does it vary from… 30 votes, 17 comments. Leaning towards these as I can try em on, can't try the other models unfortunately. As a fan, that's something I'm curious about. I appreciated Matt's generosity in explaining some of the quirks of current comp climbing trends, etc. The softer rubber on the Comps might wear down faster if you're doing a lot of outdoor climbing so be aware of that. In Conclusion Competition climbing is still fundamentally climbing, and its inclusion as an olympic sport benefits almost every practitioner of the sport in some form regardless of one's chosen discipline. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. They are amazing outdoor shoes and I think they stick even better to rock than plastic, but they are still really nice and sticky for indoor climbing. ) Also, when you do compete, don’t overthink it. r/CompetitionClimbing: A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. It's also worth looking for local gym competitions that you can join, especially those that are based on in-network Reddit's rock climbing training community. Your ranking is defined by the highest climbing hold you reach, where the highest possible hold is the top. Learning the nuances of one comp also sets you up better to learn others or counter play people. Could someone help me understand them, please? wow! I am impressed that you know this much about the japan comp climbing scene Reply reply More replies Affectionate_Fox9001 • I think ifsc climbing instagram page and the live Olympic broadcast I guess, they post information really badly — nothing in advance, but it’s at least something. I don't really enjoy the training for a bouldering comp compared to working a single move on a project for 10 sessions. Coming from a Scarpa heel, again, the comp would be most familiar. Chat Channel and post-comp thread Schedule: Monday, 8 April: 09:00 Qualis (not streamed) Tuesday, 9 April: 12:00 Women's Semis 19:00 Women's Final Wednesday, 10 April: Updated schedule All times/dates are in local time UTC+8 Time zone converter Startlist Live scoring/results: Here and on the ‘WC Series' app Quick video with some of the biggest names from Japan, UK, and Germany competing in an informal comp, mixed men and women. Sport and top rope though, I really enjoy the How well would Janja Garnbret rank in a Men’s world championship bouldering round? This question is better suited for r/climbharder or plain old r/climbing I think. See the stickied calendar for upcoming comps. However, outdoor Solution Comp performs better in sticking to almost anything. What resources can I check out to learn about training? My gym does have two hangboards and a tension board. From July 7th through 9th, the lead and speed athletes' tour of the Alps continues in Chamonix, France where they will climb at the foot of the famous Mont Blanc. ) We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Eventually you’ll realize that most comps function similarly and your goal is to be very good at Stiff vs. There's a saying I like that "if It should also be mentioned that of the four climbers you mentioned, both Ondra and Hayes grew up competition climbing in the beginning of the comp-style you mention, and Sharma and Hill also participated in world cups. On the other hand, these are gonna become the new solutions equivalent for indoor climbing, right? 176 votes, 86 comments. I'm starting to shift to sport climbing mainly for comps. Kokoro has the best bouldering record at 4 wins. This is the smaller rock climbing community on reddit. My buddy can pull V10 but good luck getting him up trickky slow slabs. Bpump exists because there was a space in the market for a large, high-level bouldering gym and the founders wanted to fill that space in order to make a profit. I… We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. But because there's other incentives bundled in there and plenty of top athletes pick and choose which events they'll attend, it isn't always the best measure of athlete's performance across the season. Thanks Edit: Thanks for all the replies! Here is a link to the comp I’m talking Reddit's rock climbing training community. A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. Soft shoes for high end bouldering? Both. After watching so many comps, I figured it was time I finally gave it a shot myself and signed up for the intermediate division (V4-V6) at a local gym. Instructions on how to spoiler tag things and stricter rules on posting them in the hub thread would be nice. Check /r/climbing for more content. Everything you do from when you step onto the mat can help you compete to a higher standard. When climbers reach the same height, the determining factor is the time. Partly for a fun change, and partly because I realized my bouldering goals just do not line up with comps. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. Any tips or tricks? Anything extra I should know in terms of etiquette other than the usual? TIA! Looking at that thread what stands out is all the unmarked spoilers. I'm sure there are some baseline strategies like attacking the easy ones first to get a bunch of easy points or the hard ones first so you don't waste all your energy on the easy ones. Most climbing comps have different level for people of different skills, and if you don’t feel comfortable competing right away, the competition climbs at the climbing gym that is hosting are left up for the public after the comp is over (in my experience at least. I decided to see how athletes ranked Mar 24, 2023 · The Drone Comp Series (CS) is an aggressive asymmetrical bouldering shoe—a soft version of the OG Drone—that excels in steeps and on volumes. I made a couple charts showing the climbing shoes worn by every IFSC World Cup bouldering and lead finalist. ELI5: Why do people still call Adam Ondra "the best climber" if Janja keeps winning almost every comp and also crushes outdoors? Lots of sports have had the occasional "Battle of the Sexes" events. And yes we are scared of falling. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. r/CompetitionClimbing: A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. My previous Scarpa Veloces were comfortable but didn’t provide enough support for edging or small footholds. Reddit's rock climbing training community. To say “Bpump only exists to give climbers a place to work” is such hyperbolic nonsense, it’s so typical of Reddit disinformation. Saki Kikuchi solely wears the Oasi and has appeared in World Cup finals. , with Alex. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. At 8 in a comp set for <11 years old I'm super proud to share my son's performance at one of the USA Climbing Bouldering Qualification Event competitions! Next week is another comp! I’m climbing up to V4 level at the moment. I'm mostly going to be doing v0-v2's since that's the beginner set. Competition Threads will be posted prior to live-streamed comps for information and discussion. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? The regular Solutions are good if you're trying to do outdoor climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. So I’m hoping i can help any climbers seeking advice or asking questions about comp climbing. You'll probably get more advice there. Plus she was climbing on an injured wrist! Gutted for Miho, Futaba, and Chaehyun. I've been trying to figure out what the differences actually are between competition and traditional style. That being said, I’d really like to perform well and feel like I gave it my all. Yeah! Glad to see Natalia back in form! Im pretty sure even if Brooke wins this comp, she’ll be in the olympics via the OCS if she retains her form! Competition Climbing: Calendar, Comp Threads, Replays, etc. Dedicated to increasing all our… Movement training and climbing 3D volume boulders is important for comp climbing. The weird mid top on the inside of the ankle seems unnecessary honestly. If both Climber A and Climber B flash all 4 problems in a competition final, but Climber B skipped the zone in one problem, which climber is ranked higher? Are they both 4T4z, or is Climber B 4T3z? (i. Solution Comp are better for edging and precision, Skwama are softer and better for smearing (mainly in indoor volumes), being for me the best for all-around, it is very rare for me to find and edge indoor I can't stand with me Skwama. I'm entering my first competition this saturday. r/CompetitionClimbing Competition Climbing A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. Both have good heels, but the heels are different between the two and fit different feet differently. Board climbing makes you stronger, but you really need to work on slab and movement to match. I’ve been researching online and la Sportiva solution comp shoes seem to be really popular- but everyone strongly advises against them for being uncomfortable and expensive ( for a beginner. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. 1 point deduction for each failed attempt to top. Fingers, wrists, elbow, shoulder tendons adapt slowly, get injured easily, and especially for someone who starts later in life, or is on the heavier side - it is HARD to get the minimum strength benchmarks to climb at V10+ (say one arm hang on 20mm for any amount of time). When the comp begins, don't just start jumping on problems. I can generally tell which of the two styles I'm climbing or have just climbed, but I really want to know how to articulate the distinction I only got into competition climbing in the past year or so. Now that climbing will have medals for each discipline for LA Olympics, would you welcome an additional "all-around" medal combining all three, for the future Olympics? The best comp climbers are well rounded, and can execute slab, crazy comp parkour moves, compression, and nails crimping. 13 votes, 18 comments. 233 votes, 390 comments. 1. For more details: I've been climbing for more than 20 years and they are some of the best shoes I've had at that size. I wanted to see how perceived quality of different brands actually correlated with the grades that users of those brands climbed. No sponsor will judge your climbing based on your performance on local gym routes, because they mean nothing. First a little background about my competition history: I've been climbing for 6 years now, and competing for 5, not very long compared to many, but long enough to have seen and competed in a fair share of local competitions. If anything, I find comp climbing (and training for it) excellent for helping me identify my lingering deficiencies and burgeoning advances. Flair up! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Climbing is inherently individual and diverse enough to cater to almost everyone in accordance with one's desired experience from the sport. Would someone explain to me how climbing comps work? From watching a lot of comp highlight videos, it seems like there are multiple ways of running a competition. Lead Climbing: Athletes climb a lead climbing wall, which is typically a lot taller than a bouldering wall and therefore requires a rope for safety. . 1K votes, 117 comments. Climbing Shoe Study (almost) Final Results! A little under a month ago, I put out a climbing shoe survey with the goal of figuring out some of the relationships between climbing shoe brands and performance. MembersOnline • HarryCaul ADMIN MOD Lead Climbing Semifinals - Did anybody notice Jacob Schubert "using" the sling of the quickdraw while heekhooking? Which shoes in their line up would be best for competition bouldering? I have a narrow/medium width foot, and my favorite shoes have been the Drone CS and Drone OG. Some people from my college placed in beginner climbing like v2-3, I placed in intermediate climbing v5-6, and a couple buddies placed in advanced climbing v8-9. Have a pair of each for what you need and when you need it. 1 on the score. 2. jnuyqny gzogeo ouz wgqk nhp darpvd hvybfvt nev mebs nvj