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Sling length for trad anchor reddit. Like you, I mostly anchor with the rope.


  • Sling length for trad anchor reddit. Rope on its own in the bottom, stuff sacks with the rack organized on shoulder slings in them on top of that, then harness with anchor gear, atc, prusik so I never forget them all my slings are nylon because theyre cheap. Step 2 Equalize them together with slings, cordelettes or a section of static rope to create a central point which fulfils the criteria in the anchor check list. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. IMHO, better to carry a couple of double runners (120cm length). I read somewhere that daisy chains can be better because the knot creates a stress point in the sling, but now I can't find the article. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Far be it from me to tell anyone besides my partner how they should climb. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Yes, This. Think about protecting your second - especially on traverses. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. 305 votes, 96 comments. I don't usually take them all, but it's pretty common for me to take 4-6 quickdraws, 4-6 alpines, and one double length alpine just in case. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. 1. As others have said. In France specifically, dynamic personals are pretty much always used. Yes a double-length sling would work fine as a rappel sling but a PAS or a Purcell Prusik allows you to dial in the length between you and the anchor such as when you're testing the system before setting off on rappel. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. 3). I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. You're good. The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. Jul 6, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. What happens to the rest of them when you fall on the top piece. 2 - For the approach, everything is in the bag, nothing hanging around on the outside. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which If you just need to leave one or two slings for a rap anchor you end up with an off-length and not particularly useful cordalette so then you are buying a whole new cordalette which costs more that two tied tape slings. Just tie an overhand on a double length sling into a masterpoint and belay off that using a Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. At most ill do 6 quickdraws, 6 alpine draws, 6 slings, and a double length sling. com Sep 25, 2020 · A 240cm or 480cm sling can be handy when equalising trad anchors that may have three or more pieces and also for wrapping around a tree or rock when building anchors where other pro cannot be found. three point anchor and I'd go with cordellette or long sling, complex trad anchor, cordellette, same leader, cordellette/sling. Final Thoughts: Get Yourself Some Alpines! Oct 29, 2023 · You can absolutely still use it without doubling it over once more, but I find that sets the master point to low for my liking. At least one person has told me they carry this in a 20ft length for this purpose, and do all of their anchor building with it. And your comment "I've just flung a huge sling or two over a massive boulder (1 piece, no redundancy, oh god!) and called it good" made me smile because I do the same. But trad routes tend to wander more because you aren’t following a line of bolts. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. Always thought 7mm was standard. If your second falls, they fall on you and not the anchor. 15 votes, 19 comments. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. An equalette or cordelette (cordalette?) would have Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. 5 tech cord but more versatile. depends what you are doing. trueWould that kind of gear have any application to a multipitch setting? I know some people choose to build 3-piece anchors, or quads, whatever, out of cordalette rather than a sling or webbing. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. Yea, sure, it works. sling or closed cordlette). Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. I've done a fair amount of trad but little involving the little buggers. Anchor building is a complex subject, and it’s impossible to cover everything related to belay anchors (or even the quad) in a single article. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. Some additional things you need to think about: How your gear placements affect the system. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. Is the If I'm at a trad anchor it's a backup to my rope clove hitched into the master point and it can extend longer instantly by choosing which loop I want to clip into, where as you'd have to either remove one sling and connect it to the other and tie a knot to get the length you want, or remember ahead of time to use a longer sling for your tether How to build a trad anchor Not all belay stances are bolted. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. im using them for anchors, extending rappels, PAS, organizing gear, etc. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. *1 each 12 small wire carabiners for alpine draws and cams- Ocun Kestrel 25g 4 regular sized wire carabiners for anchors Few meters 5-6mm accesory cord. Reply reply See full list on rei. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. This piece is not necessary) Nut tool! (If you would like to do more trad stuff, it can be very useful to buy your own. The second most common use for slings is for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in order to create a belay anchor. But yeah, everything depends on the situation of course. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. A twist is placed in each loop, and then a carabiner is clipped through the loop and the other strand of the sling. Pretty light and plenty of length. Thanks for your comments. Very versatile. Just know the trade-offs: you trap yourself in the system and make self-rescue a bit more complex. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. I find some usefulness in having the 240cm sling in case I need to use a huge boulder as the anchor (so the slings wouldn't go doubled around). I mentioned early on that I was specifically addressing "trad climbing gear anchors" because I thought that someone would immediately apply what I wrote to a two Carrying the right length of webbing for emergency bails and rappels during multi-pitch trad climbing is important for your safety and flexibility in dealing with unexpected situations. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. You have to be careful! Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. Trad climbing is a lot more than placing gear and clipping it. Here’s how you develop one that will work for you. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Just don't load them dynamically. 3 to 0. Autoblock, prusik or other? I'm a lady climber that does sport and trad climbs. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. . And if the slings went doubled, girth-hitching would halve the strength. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Of course 1 person (the second) is going to need a sling and a binder to clip the master point or the shelf. It would probably be best if you went climbing with someone for a day in your area to see what they use and ask them questions. if you are climbing a trad route then the norm (at least in the UK) is: a single screw-gate on each piece of gear, equalised either with a long sling passed through each piece and knotted (overhand) to form a master point. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! A Sliding X is a type of anchor used to equalize two, and sometimes three, pieces of protection with a sewn sling. Of course the same principles apply The extra black and white sling is a preference thing, but if it’s your only anchor stuff for your belay station then it’s not long enough, see above. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. On here sits all the extra stuff. If you're going to toprope anchor only, it might be better to get a length of 10mm static line. You can damage internal organs with just a 10kN force - falling onto a sling directly is likely to be much higher than this. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). tree and would triload biners? Skip the wrap or get longer slings? How to rack trad gear To climb efficiently on trad, you need a system to keep your rack organised. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I either use the rope for anchors, or use a double runner plus the rope. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. Lots of ground placement practice, attach an appropriate length sling, or an etrier/Aid ladder, and weight it and bounce test it on each piece you place. When I'm climbing multipich trad it only comes out when it's time to rappel and is used a rappel sling otherwise I'm cloving into the anchor. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. Just curious. My prusiks are 6mm nylon. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Just getting into multi pitch trad and was wondering what was your preferred anchor material? I have followed some easy routes before and seen accessory cords, ropes and equalizer slings used and I like the rope method. The sling is clipped to the pieces of protection, and then a loop is pulled down between the pieces of protection. 8kn vs 12. Mar 9, 2023 · Racking gear A fully extended alpine quickdraw does not only need to be used in climbing or anchor-building scenarios. g. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also pick up? Thanks as always! Hey guys, gonna be going to Cochise stronghold to climb this weekend. Keep slack out of your static anchors. I have also just bought a quad-length sling (240cm) that I will use as another option for anchor-building. And yes we are scared of falling. I used to use a variety of the above, until I went climbing in Europe. Don't do that. single HMS on the master point to attach yourself to (clove hitch from your rope attached to Alpine draws and single-length slings (60 cm) Single-length slings are long enough to prevent rope drag in most situations where a route meanders, making them essential kit for trad climbers. You can easily store this system on your harness. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. Mar 21, 2017 · For a 240m length sling, 10mm would be less of a cluster than say a 13 or 14mm sling. But here's my take. I rarely use 12cm draws for trad outside of 'trad protected highballs'. Nwslackline. I also love 120cm alpine draws which I rack at 1/5th length so they extend as easily as a 60cm alpine, however they aren't very common. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. You can also use the sling to rack climbing equipment and transport everything to and from the crag in a simple and practical way without an extra, purpose-built gear sling. That’s why I’ve created a whole series on anchor building. Aug 18, 2019 · Double-length slings are most common for these purposes. Equalizing anchors using slings can get annoying really fast, and you have to carry several sling to do it. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. My rapp system until this point has been to extend with a knotted sling and then attach an autoblock to my belay loop. If there is any chance that you will move sideways or above the anchor, make sure to attach to it with the rope. Working Carabiners Really depends on the scenario. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. A Sliding X is a type of anchor used to equalize two, and sometimes three, pieces of protection with a sewn sling. This anchor is fine. Seems like those would be awfully short if I go w/ "basket" w/ another wrap around a 1' dia. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. 2 extra trad draws for nuts. This is why you should not use normal quick draws on trad routes, but, instead, alpine draws, which are extendable. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. A lot less material and weighs nothing. My trad sling stash consists of 6 floppy, thin quickdraws, 8 single length alpines, and 2 double length alpines. Yeah, cord is for anchors sling is more if I wanna rack some extra gear. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). Feb 5, 2024 · I agree #2 isn't particularly speedy relative to many anchor configurations, but I do think it's speedy for anchor placements where the gear placements are far apart and people commonly use all sorts of slings and cord in a highly complex, cascading anchor that is inefficient in both time and material. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. no need for a purcell or PAS just girth hitch a sling from your tie in point and clip into the anchor, keep the sling weighted so you can't fall on it. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. If you're only going to be at 2 bolt sport anchors, some people make a quad out of a 240 mm Dyneema sling. nice simple two bolt anchor with switching leads, sub 5s clove hitch anchor. I was looking for some advice on placing chicken heads. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Make sure you have a rock or hex to pound back out the passive pieces on the backside of your nut tool. They are more versatile overall, and you can usually do most anchor rigging if needed with them. I've only started building climbing anchors recently, and although I can confidently build a safe anchor, I don't know enough yet to inspect all the anchors other people set up. That said, in my experience in the Pacific Northwest if North America, a good multipurpose trad rack includes: a double set of cams in common sizes (BD camalot 0. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. You'll have less room at your anchor and be less comfortable. It could also break the sling, or the anchor. 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it was a pain. Cordelette for any self rescue scenario, load release MMO hitch, plus it’s a prussik and foot loop combo in itself. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. Rope management is more difficult (especially if other parties are rapping to your station). ) I have cordelette, slings, and of course plenty He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). What I learned today. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? It’s apples and oranges. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. 3 to 3) one bigger off-fist size cam (bd 4) about a dozen nuts weighted towards the small sizes about a 6x 60cm 11mm dyneema sling *may want more depending on the route 2x 120cm 11mm dyneema sling 1x 240 8mm dyneema sling or enough dyneema/aramid cord to make an equivalent length sling. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. Additional bail option to leave a cordelette. The home of Climbing on reddit. If you want a cordelette for multi-pitch, I'd recommend 7mm X 20 ft. One Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. Personally I would rather use the back side of my clove to set this up instead of doing it between my tie-in and the anchor. Something between 30 and 60 ft. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. That would be a good start but only gives you a foundation in placing gear. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. 1 or 2 prussiks or Autoblock 1 shoulder-length sling (can use as gear sling if needed or as prussik/rap backup if needed. The best personal anchor will always be When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Trad climbing 101 Learn everything you’ve ever wanted to know about trad climbing including the skills, gear, and popular destinations. To build on what you’re learned here, I recommend reading my articles on how to build a trad anchor and how to assess belay anchors next. A cordelette can (pseudo) equalize three anchors relatively quickly, and gives you two points to anchor off the cordelette Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. Nov 18, 2016 · The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors fast. Learn how to make a three-piece trad anchor using a quad or traditional overhand-knot technique. Apr 14, 2021 · Slings, carabiners and anchor material Like in sport climbing, you’ll need carabiners and slings to clip your rope onto the protection. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Like you, I mostly anchor with the rope. Route finding Getting back down 1 - At home its in a trunk, organized and unracked and all that to keep webbing good. The rope stays out on its own in a dry corner. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. 8mm rope is a must for these anchors to get enough length and get the angle of anchor points smaller. however, im not doing any trad, or using them in situations where weight/bulk is an issue. Trad Climbing Gear > Slings This 'Climbing Slings' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. Yeah, I'd much rather build an anchor with a rope than have to carry enough long slings to be able to equalise a 3 or 4 point Trad anchor in most places. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. Remember that the top roping anchor will be out of sight and not consistently weighted while you are climbing. So the technique is called a fixed point belay, and it will work with two bomber pieces of trad gear set directionally for opposed pull, or a bolt anchor. Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. I'd get some 30cm open slings instead, good draw for in between alpines and 18cm dogbone draws. Thanks! Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. If anyone has some tips or advice it would be much appreciated considering that some of the climbs out there require an anchor created entirely of chicken heads. 1x 18’ Cordelette and 1x 240cm Dyneema Sling on 1x carabiner (sometimes just two cordelettes) This gives flexibility for anchor building on bolts, monolith, trees, pitons, or gear (we have it all). Now I only have to replace one sling every few seasons, and the added length means I get more flexibility for that one anchor as well as a few others. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. I recommend the Wild Country one with a leash) 1 cordalette (if you have 2, bring the other in the car. Depends on the route and the rack. 5 can vary from 0. e. Regardless of how many protection points make up your anchor, it is highly recommended that these pieces be equalized, so any weight and force is spread evenly between And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. 5kn 7mm is between 13. Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more options as to where you could climb. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing It's much harder to escape the belay. 8-12 is a good starting point. Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. This is because the amount of force applied to each anchor point depends on the angle formed by the slings coming together. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new The horizontal spacing between anchor points and the length of slings that you use to connect the points are critical in creating a reliable anchor. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Agreed on weight, though. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Bulkier than 5. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. wensvbuqz togxjl yszb bjf nbtsoq wdnbj wuvtn ofemt dmfvux alysn